Monday, October 22, 2007

Holy Lavaux St Jacques, Batman!

Sorry for the '80s camp TV reference in the title of this post, but it aptly sums up my reaction to this, the best still wine (yeah, these days I exclude Champagne from all comparisons cause it's that good) I've had in my home in quite a while. It might be a little bit annoying because it is expensive wine, probably $70 or more for a bottle - not exactly sure of the retail price. More annoying might be the fact that if you decided that you were going to buy a bottle, it is not easy to find - I checked Wine Searcher and could not locate exactly this wine from this vintage.

But the wine was beautiful and I'm telling you about it anyway.

2004 Dominique Laurent Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques Vieille Vignes
, (about $75 Martin Scott Imports). I doubt that I would have bought this bottle myself, as I RARELY spend this kind of money on wine. But I was able to get a bottle at the wholesale price from a friend.

I've heard several wine people say that if the classifications were re-drawn today, Les Amoureuses in Chambolle-Musigny, Perrieres in Meursault, and this - Lavaux St Jacques would get Grand Cru status for sure. I can see why, based on this wine. This was my first Lavaux, and please lord, whoever and wherever you are, make it so that it's not my last?!?

The color is vibrant ruby, and very clear. There is a richly musky perfume, with freshly turned earth, and some baking spices - a deep nose, this is what they mean by brooding, I would assume. The palate is broad, very deep, elegant and firm. Bright and spicy red and sour cherry with dried leaves and underbrush, and cheek tingling acidity. These are mouth coating, long lasting sappy Pinot flavors. It is the depth and length of the flavors that is astounding - this is just obviously a step up from the Burgundy wine I tend to drink. This wine is unfiltered and unfined and unadulterated beauty. I was entranced with the stuff from the moment I opened it, all throughout its life at our dinner (roast rack of lamb with herbs) and for the rest of the night. I slept with the empty bottle next to my pillow.

So if you want an astounding Pinot for your holiday dinner, let's say, and you want to know that you're getting an amazing bottle for the $$$ - this would fit the bill, in my opinion.

And it's interesting because Dominique Laurent is a negociant producer, buying grapes from other growers to make wine. This might not be in vogue at the moment, especially not on this blog, but it goes to show that amazing wine can come from a variety of producers, of all shapes and sizes. I wonder who grew the grapes - there are a few exceptional producers who own vines in Lavaux, according to Burgundy Report...


RougeAndBlanc said...

Gosh! The more I learn about Burgundy, the more I realized how little I know about that region. So fustrating!

Brooklynguy said...

What do you mean Andrew?

RougeAndBlanc said...

Oh! What I meant was that learning Burgandy wine region does create a sizeable task for newbies like myself.

Brooklynguy said...

Don't despair, just read a bit and trust your own palate, and taste some wines. No need to make it more complicated than that, I would say.

Anonymous said...

Have been learning a lot about wine thanks to blogs like yours. I know heaps about food but the problem is a lot of wine sites can be stuffy for beginners! Keep up the good work!

Brooklynguy said...

Thanks niall - i'm so glad that you're digging it. see you again sometime.

Kris Prasad said...

We met at the Portugese tasting and sat next to each other.
I think you meant Clos St.Jacques, not Lavaut, as a possible equivalent of a Grand Cru. Perfectly positioned on the Combe, on the turn, it gets a few degrees more heat equivalent to those on the grand cru slopes . Lavaut is cooler with a terrain that imparts minerality and a "stony" delicacy. I agree with Amoureuses and have my own favorite--Combe d'Orveau in Chambolle.
Kris Prasad