Sunday, November 25, 2007

2006 Beaujolais from Vissoux and Cheveau

I have two favorite 2006 Beaujolais so far, considering only the larger appellations of Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, not the Cru areas. Both of these wines are, to me, exactly what Beaujolais should taste like, and if the dollar weren't such a piece of junk, exactly what Beaujolais should cost here in the US.

They are absolutely fresh and ripe, with snappy acidity, very well balanced, and they're fun and refreshing. They're great on their own but they call out for food, from pan roasted fish, to burgers, t
o roast chicken, to whatever you like - you would have to set your mind to it in order to pair these wines poorly.

2006 Domaine du Vissoux Cuvée Traditionnelle Beaujolais Vieille Vignes, ($15 at Chambers Street - should be widely available). This is an old vines wine, and I prefer it in 2006 to Vissoux's "regular" Beaujolais, which although tasty, I found to be a little dull compared with this wine. This one really sings, with great fruit and floral aromas and a vibrant palate of raspberries, some dried leaves lurking underneath. This wine has such purity and freshness, it just feels good in the mouth. I defy you to find someone who doesn't like this wine. Fine, maybe Dick Cheney wouldn't like it.

2006 Michel Cheveau Beaujolais-Villages Or Rouge, ($15 at Prospect Wine Shop - should be moderately available). This is the same Michel Cheveau whose Mâcon white just killed me recently. I thought this was a Rosenthal Selection, but curiously, Cheveau is not listed on their website now. Anyway, this wine has deeper and sweeter fruit than the Vissoux, but it is without the leafy complexity. It is easy to drink and to enjoy with food, young and vivacious and snappy, and just absolutely delicious. As opposed to the Vissoux, which I though held up very well into the second day, this one lost a lot of fruit on day two. Open this one when you're going to drink the whole bottle. I went through a few bottles recently when we had people over and they were scratching around the cabinets like mice looking for more.

If you think that you don't like Beaujolais (and honestly, I think you do like it, even if you don't know that you do), try one of these and see what you think. If you hate it that much you can send a bill to Brooklynguy Inc. and I will talk to the folks in the back office about reimbursing you. I bet, though, that you wind up with a half case of one of them for daily drinking over the next few months. Who doesn't need a few bottles of delicious food friendly light bodied red wine on hand?


Marcus said...

Wow that's quite a promotional policy you've got.

My last Beaujolais was your recommendation -- the 05 Vissoux I believe -- and it was great but I don't think that there's anything comparable to it way up here. So I don't much do too much bojo.

Despite its light body, I find Beaujolais wine tricky to pair with delicate food. Any tips on this?

RougeAndBlanc said...

Neil - If I recalled correctly, Dick Cheney had a few bypass surgery, besides shooting his friends, I doubt wine is on top of his lists these days.

Marcus - I think roast turkey (or chicken club sandwich) is textbook food match. Lightly spiced food (e.g. salt & spicy pork chop) would be a good match too for Beaujolais.

Anonymous said...

Hi Neil, the Vissoux was one of our Thanksgiving Picks -- and maybe a contender for the Brooklynguy pack? You can see our friend Simon's notes here:

rougeandblanc...I think that Cheney had kicked a few back before shooting his friend, though that was never fully disclosed. However, I doubt he was liquored up with wine...more likely beer or Bourbon!

Brooklynguy said...

hi marcus - why doesn't SAQ carry a good selection of Beauj? That would be a nightmare for me. I honestly think that Beauj can go with almost anything. It pairs well with eating, never mind specific foods.

thanks for your pairing suggestions Andrew, and for your compassion for our VP.

hey jill - i remember we were talking about the "regular" Beauj. the VV is a great pick though.

Anonymous said...

I haven't tasted these wines--I haven't seen them. Sometimes I think we people on the West Coast live in a wine time warp (unless you like liquid alcoholic jam--we have lots of that!). For a juicy red full of fruit in the drinking-over-the-next-few-months vein I have been happy with the 2006 Philippe Tessier Cheverny rouge. This fairly bursts with strawberry/cherry deliciousness, and is frighteningly gulpable. (Geez, did I spill half of that bottle, cuz I couldn't have drunk it, could I?) It's $14 here; don't even tell me if it's $10 in NY.

P.S. The word verification thing on these comments is up to nine letters!

Brooklynguy said...

hey steve!! long time no see, maybe since you went to france. i've never seen the tessier wine. i think we get access to different stuff, especially when its small production stuff. do you get tue-bouef out there?

Anonymous said...

Tue Boeuf comes here only by special arrangement...with UPS! Some Puzelat KO is on its way to me now, in fact, from Chambers Street. Actually, I have to modify that a little: last month a new wine shop opened in SF and their focus is on natural wines. I'm still getting acquainted with them. Almost all wine stores here are of the points-driven variety (Kermit Lynch being the only long-term exception).

Brooklynguy said...

hi steve - well i hope they have all sorts of great stuff, the wines that you like to drink. i bet they will. and chambers has a great shipping policy, as you know, just in case.