Saturday, February 16, 2008

Friday Night Bubbles

NV Domaine André et Mireille Tissot Crémant du Jura, $19 at Chambers Street Wines. This domaine is run in Arbois by Stéphane Tissot, the son of André and Mireille. This is the third Crémant du Jura I've had in the past two months and I am right now firmly of the mind that if I'm not going to drink Champagne, I want to drink Crémant du Jura.

Really? What about Loire sparklers? Well they're very good too, but the Crémant du Jura wines are made from 100% Chardonnay, and if you squint a bit, they are almost like a Blanc de Blancs from Champagne. I've found them as a group to be very focused and precise, chalky, fresh and citrusy, lean, and refreshing. Not approaching the depth of a Blanc de Blancs from Champagne, but great in their own half-the-price-of-Champagne way.

While this one is not my favorite of the three (that would be the Domaine de Montbourgeau), it is still very good wine. The nose is super clean, very fresh, with prominent chalk, pastry dough, and ginger. The palate is surprisingly full and rich with citrus, chalky minerals, and yellow cake. It is not all that focused though, and does not follow through on the promise of the nose - it's missing that cut at the finish. Still, this is satisfying and delicious wine, and I suspect would be better with food than it is as an aperitif.

3 comments:

Jack at Fork & Bottle said...

I've found that Stephane Tissot is making some of themost interesting wines in the Jura. Try his other wines when you get the opportunity. Definitely in the Restaurant Buy category, too.

Sonadora said...

I'm extremely envious of all the bubbly being served at the BrooklynFamily house! Perhaps I should have made bubbly one of my resolutions for the year rather than Italian varietals!

Brooklynguy said...

hey jack - i've heard the same. There'sm a small Jura tasting at Chamber Street in a couple of weeks. hopefully they'll pour one or two of his wines.

hey sonadora - why waste time on envy? there's nothing difficult about making one of every 12 bottle you buy a sparkling wine. just go for it.