Friday Night Bubbles

NV Cousin-Luduc Saumur Brut, $26, Jenny & Francois Selections. Olivier Cousin makes natural wines, working his family's property in the central part of the Loire Valley near the area defined as Coteaux du Layon. He farms without chemicals, ferments with only indigenous yeast, and adds nothing whatsoever to the juice - no sulfites, no enzymes or other chemicals, and no sugar. Cousin cultivates Gamay, Grolleau, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Chenin Blanc - there is something for everyone in this portfolio. The wines can put some people off at first, as they showcase the spectrum of aromas and flavors that occur when fermenting grape juice into wine. They can be funky and a bit rustic, but they evolve beautifully in the glass and in the cellar, and offer a clean and pure expression of the terroir that is Layon.

This sparkling wine is no exception. I first had it at the Jenny & Francois tasting back in March and liked it very much. It wasn't until buying it retail that I noticed its closure - a bottle cap, no different from what you'd find on a beer. Shouldn't that indicate a low pressure sparkling wine? As it turns out, yes. There is little to no mousse, a very light bead, and a barely effervescent mouth feel. But sparkling it is, and it's an interesting style. This wine really shines aromatically with fleshy peach and yellow fruits, nuts n' honey, and an underlying streak of funky animal. The palate is more on the fruit side, less animal, and there is a pleasing and faint yeastiness. After a half hour of air time the wine really fleshed out, the fresh stone fruit on the palate mingling beautifully with the hints of bread and soil.

I imagine that this wine would be good on its own, although people not used to this style of wine making might prefer it the way we did, with a little nibbles like almonds, a spicy yogurt spread, thin crackers, things like that. This is a definite re-buy, although the price forces me to consider the occasion instead of just grabbing another and tucking it away, as I would if it were under $20. Everything is getting more expensive these days...

Deetrane Invades Long Island's North Fork

My good friends Deetrane and his wife P-trane just celebrated their 5th wedding anniversary with a weekend in the North Fork of Long Island. Dee and P were happily surprised at how much they liked the wines. Deetrane still says to me each time I see him now "Do you realize that this is our own BACKYARD?!?" I'm pretty sure that he wants to go back. I know that he came home with at least two cases of wine. Anyway, the following is a bit about the weekend from Deetrane himself. He's a vastly entertaining fellow - don't hesitate to check out his older guest posts.

It's been a while since my last post, and the Brooklynguy has been hounding me to pound one out, so here I am. No, I'm sorry, I don't have any tales to tell about Russian wine-gangsters or the Schlitz-shchlurping NYPD vice squad. Rather, I have a lovely story to tell about an eye-opening visit to… The North Fork of Long Island.

For our 5th anniversary weekend, P-trane and I arrived by car from NYC and following Lenn's suggestion, checked into the Harvest Inn B&B in Peconic. It's a sprawling, 5 year-old replica of a big old farmhouse with wide plank pine floors, super high ceilings and lots of fireplaces. The owners, Darolyn and Chris, welcomed us with gusto and a chilled bottle of chardonnay.

Overall, I was astounded at the consistency and quality of the wines we tasted, which were those of The Lenz, Paumanok, Pellegrini, Peconic Bay and Borghese. These wines have a determinedly old-world feel, in which fruit plays heavily but not excessively, alcohol levels are on the low side (12-13%), and words like integration, balance and harmony come to mind. Given my partiality for Northern Italian, Spanish and Burgundy wines, I felt like I was being reunited with a long-lost relative. There was a certain familiarity combined with fascination of the new.

The high point of the weekend was a vigorous personal tour of the vineyards and winery at Peconic Bay by wine maker Greg Gove. Never has anyone – except maybe Maria de López de Heredia – been so generous and enthusiastic about delving so deeply into their craft with a complete stranger. The low point, such as it was, was probably the wine tasting on Saturday evening at the Harvest Inn. Owner and chef Chris, who just that morning had been a total teddy bear serving his delicious apple-cinnamon pancakes, became an utter tyrant while pouring a fabulous 2002 Peconic Bay Cabernet Sauvignon and an equally impressive 2005 Reisling. Imagine you are back in 4th grade gym class, and the teacher is warning you that you will be ejected from the class if you dribble that basketball before he is done lecturing on the physics of a jump shot. And you're thinking, "geez, I just wanna play ball." We were instructed not only when to drink, but how to swirl, how to hold the class, and what to think about while swallowing. Notwithstanding, the wine was superb and made us that much more excited for our private tour the following day.

We made culinary stops at The North Fork Table and Inn, and Jedediah Hawkins' Inn , which seem to occupy the top two restaurant slots by reputation. Both were memorable for their fresh, local ingredients, but despite raves from the press, locals, and our fellow guests at the inn, the only truly distinctive aspect of meals at those places was the honey-tasting we had for dessert at Jed's, consisting of four markedly different local honeys.

In fact, the best meal I had was at The Vine, a wine bar in Greenport run by investment banker turned sommelier Joe Watson. Either he was a really terrible banker or a really great one, both of which could explain his apparent retirement at the age of 32. I suspect it was the latter. The first thing I saw on the ample wines-by-the-glass list was a 1988 López de Heredia Vina Tondonia, which I instantly ordered for $20 because of the nostalgic pull from my honeymoon trip, previously described here in my last guest post. Imagine my shock and embarrassment when Joe revealed that he, too, had also gotten the tapas treatment by Maria when he was in Rioja! At least Joe didn't get to raid the library with the gnarly moldy vine-rope.

News From Alice Feiring's Book Party

I had a great time at Alice Feiring's book party in Manhattan the other night. A pleasure to celebrate her achievement with her and a load of various wine people, writers, at least one actor (Dion Graham of The Wire!) and publishing types. The wine was plentiful and delicious and I spoke with lots of interesting people, including Jenny Lefcourt and Kate Szulc, Joe Dressner, David Lillie, and Terry Hughes. And I cornered Dion Graham for a while also.

My favorite Joe Dressner quote from the evening: "I used to kidnap heiresses when I was young."

I may have changed the course of the Mondosapore blog, and possibly of Terry's life's work. You see, while we were talking about career changes and all sorts of other things, I spilled most of my glass of 2005 Louvetrie Muscadet Fief du Breil all over him. He stood there open mouthed, blinking, silent. I was worried that our new friendship was abruptly over, crushed by the same rocky minerals that so delicately infuse this young wine, and that now saturated Terry's sharp green sweater. Not at all the case. Actually, Terry seemed delighted, proclaimed himself intoxicated by the aromas, and declared that Mondosapore will now focus exclusively on wines of the Loire Valley, particularly Muscadet. This is an exciting development, as you know that I love these wines. So far I have yet to notice the changes on Terry's site, but I am sure they're coming.

Alice was really glowing - lots of good vibes coming at her from all directions. And she busted out a slamming dress for the occasion. I am now the proud owner of a signed copy of her new book, which promises to be a great read.

Friday Night Bubbles

NV Pierre Gimonnet Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru, $36 (but it's about $42 now, as they've all gone up in price), Terry Theise Selections. Disgorged on September 21, 2007, as the label helpfully explains.

Gimonnet's vines are located in the Côte de Blancs, some in the Grand Cru villages of Chouilly and Cramant, others in the 1er Cru village of Cuis. These Cru designations are meaningful, but they obviously don't tell the whole story, just like in Burgundy. There are top flight producers, including big houses like Bollinger, who buy grapes from 1er Cru Cuis growers, but sell their wines for Grand Cru dough.

Gimonnet is a producer whose wines were among the first Grower Champagnes I experienced. This wine in particular sold me me on the beauty and the individuality of Grower wines. This is a great wine that is just so easy to love, a wine to pour you in-laws if they haven't yet tasted Grower Champagne. I hadn't had a bottle in about 6 months and we decided that it was time.

The nose is clean and creamy with citrus and chalky minerals. Not as focused as some other Blanc de Blancs, more broad and round. I mean that in a good way. The palate is chalky chalky chalky, with some toasty bread and fresh citrus fruit. Delicious and satisfying Champagne, unencumbered with baggage of any kind - this is pure chalky soil on display. We carelessly left a glass out on the counter over night and in the morning I discovered (as I was making coffee) that although it was flat, it was almost salty with minerals and totally complex and delicious. Even in this warm and flat state, this was very tasty and interesting. They say that's the ultimate test with Champs, the quality of the still wine...

So does this mean I have a problem, drinking warm and flat Champagne from my wife's glass at 6:45 AM on a Saturday while preparing my daughter's breakfast? It was just a sip or two.

Mature López de Heredia Rosé for Spring

Amidst the sea of simple and relatively uninteresting rosé wines that hit the market every year right around now, there are a few to get genuinely excited about. There are the beautiful and age worthy rosés from Bandol and other areas in Provence. There are Sancerre rosés made from Pinot Noir, also age worthy wines in the hands of either of the Cotat brothers, for example. There is (was?) the gorgeous rosé of Pinot D'Aunis by Eric Nicolas at Domaine de Bellivière in the nothern Loire Valley. There are others too, of course, but let me get to the point.

In general, I think that although most rosé is simple wine that relies on sweetness, color, and the sunny and beautiful environment in which you will consume them in order to bring pleasure, there are some serious and beautiful rosé wines out there. Some of them actually show best when they're at least 10 years old. That's about 75 in human years, by the way. One of them is made by López de Heredia, the amazing and traditional producer in Rioja. We were inspired last year by the beautiful 1995, and decided that it will become a ritual of spring each year to open a bottle of old López de Heredia rosé.

1997 López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Viña Tondonia, $24, Polaner Selections. A blend of 20% Tempranillo, 60% Garnacho (Grenache), and 20% Viura (a traditional white grape of Rioja). This rosé was a bit muted when first opened. A little air brought out the orange blossoms on the nose, and surprisingly intense minerals, Savennieres like minerality initially. Very clean and pure in the mouth, very satisfying. There was a mingling of pure peach fruit with something like undergrowth, and a slightly oily texture with a touch of sherry-like maturity, but just a touch. And the lingering mouth aromas are very mineral. This is complex and delicious wine. On day two it blossomed and was all the more floral, now with something like an escargot butter mouth aroma, very heady and rich.

We enjoyed the wine with a special treat - a plate of Jamón Ibérico. My first time tasting this, the gossamer slices of the prized pata negra, the black pigs who eat acorns and then generously, if reluctantly, offer their hindquarters to gourmets all over the world. And although this ham was indeed utterly delicious, at $85 a pound I am officially removing myself from the Jamón Ibérico market. I got 6 slices, friends, and it set me back $18. I think I would have enjoyed Speck or another quality ham just as much.

I read a comment about this wine by someone named Slaton on Cellar Tracker and it really hit home for me: he suggested that the richness of the wine would make it a good pairing with crab. As soon as I read that my mouth began to water. What a phenomenal meal that would be, simply boiled crabs with salty butter, bread, and this wine. Then maybe a salad, or maybe instead just grab your dining partner and off to bed.

By the Glass - 2006 Beaujolais Edition

I'm a big fan of the 2006 vintage in Beaujolais. What I love about the '06s so far, aside from their sheer deliciousness, is their transparency - they are so clearly and unmistakably Beaujolais. The more experienced among us (not me in this case) would probably take this a step further and say "that wine is unmistakably Morgon," or Fleurie, or Chiroubles, or what have you.

I don't know enough to be able to say things like that. But when I say unmistakably Beaujolais, I mean that the wines are ripe and vibrant with fruit, spicy, there is a fleeting sense of soil underneath everything, the acidity is refreshing but not the most prominent aspect of the wine, and there is that something, that unique Beaujolais aroma and flavor, that young, loaded with potential energy, just graduated from college, about to take over the world quality. Hard to describe - taste them yourself and you'll see.

Here are a few notes on the 2006 Beaujolais that I've had so far. I'm only including the wines that I've had with dinner, nothing from tastings:

2006 Domaine du Vissoux Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes Cuvée Traditionnelle, $15, Weygandt-Metzler. Lean, taught, racy. Ripe fruit competes with lively acidity and spicy mouth aromas. This is, to me, the essence of Beaujolais, and it's a pleasure to drink. Although it's certainly lovely on its own, a meal induces this beauty to slip into something more comfortable.

2006 Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes, $15, Louis/Dressner selections. What I'm about to say might make some of you angry, although that is definitely not my aim. I actually prefer this wine to the 2005. YES, it's true - this wine is so completely wonderful, it's hard to describe by typing keys on a computer. I know you love the 05, and I liked it too, but it was almost too intense for me. This is lean, pure, quiet and soft Beaujolais beauty. But it's powerful too, like one of those skinny Sumo wrestlers. Fruity and floral with lip smacking acidity, there is excellent length, and it's a bit spicy. It feels energetic in the mouth. It goes with anything - I had it recently with spaghetti with clam sauce and everyone was happy. Maybe in its prime drinking window right now, too. And get it while you can, because only a third of Brun's 2007's can be labeled as Beaujolais, according to the wise folks at the French INAO. And changing the name of the wine will most assuredly change your perception of it's flavor and quality.

2006 Guy Breton Morgon Vieille Vignes, $21, Kermit Lynch Imports. My first Breton, one of the 'Gang of Four' natural wine producers of Morgon. This one, to me, was a case of too natural for its own good. I kept waiting for the brett to blow off, but it never did, really. There was some pretty red berry fruit and baking spices, but not a whole lot else going on other than the funk. Not something I would re-buy.

2006 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette, $22, Louis/Dressner Selections. Incredibly floral and fresh smelling, with plenty of freshly crushed strawberries. Just a wonderful nose. Tannins still a bit prominent on the palate - this will benefit from a few months in the bottle. Delicious nonetheless, with a great balance of fresh fruit, apple skins, flowers, and earth. In terms of immediate and hedonistic pleasure, this is my favorite of the vintage so far. Although I haven't yet tasted the Coudert Cuvée Tardive...

2006 George Descombes Régnié, $18, Louis/Dressner Selections. 6 months ago in my end-of-the-year 2007 best-of post I said this was my favorite Cru Beaujolais of the year. Most '06s hadn't been released at that point, but I'll stand by calling this a fantastic bottle of wine. Ripe red and black fruit, flowers, fine grained tannins, this is deep and excellent wine that improves with time in the glass. There is more than meets the eye to this one.

2006 George Descombes Chiroubles Vieilles Vignes, $28, Louis/Dressner Selections. Yes, folks, we are in the age of $28 Beaujolais. In the case of the top bottles, anyway. Lyle loves this wine. I'm not sure yet where I stand on this. It's clearly delicious wine, with deeply pitched and well structured fruit, many layers to reveal. Even on the nose, the wine has layers of complexity. In a way it feels more like drinking Burgundy than Beaujolais. I'm not sure that's what I want when I drink Beaujolais. I need to drink another bottle of this, maybe decant next time.

Friday Night Bubbles

NV Domaine de Montbourgeau Crémant du Jura, $18, Rosenthal Importers. This wine is great news for all of us - a top quality sparkling wine for under $20. Really a great one, too. Located in the small village of L'Etoile, Domaine de Montbourgeau is known for still whites. There is a long lived vin jaune and three whites made in the "sous voile," or under-the veil style, the oxidized style of whites that the Jura is famous for. One of these, the all-Chardonnay Montbourgeau L'Etoile costs about $20 and is a great way to sample the oxidized style of Jura without breaking the bank.

Anyway...This sparkling wine is 100% Chardonnay and it's just delicious. Fresh and vibrant, incisive with snappy citrus acidity, light and elegant mouth feel with a smooth in texture, this wine will exceed your expectations at this price point. It doesn't have the chalky mineral complexity of a truly fine Blanc de Blancs, but if you want Champagne, then buy Champagne. If you want a great sparkling wine - interesting, elegant, food-friendly Blanc de Blancs - this is one to buy. Works well as an aperitif or with all kinds of food (I had it with steak once and that worked). This time we had a glass while gabbing about the day, and then enjoyed the rest with a stew of French lentils, russet potatoes, and slab bacon. It cut through the rich food like a hot knife through butter.

The best news - if you live in New York, this wine is easy to find right now. Chambers Street and Astor have it, so do Prospect Wines and Slope Cellars in Brooklyn. I'm sure you'll find it wherever you buy other Rosenthal wines. If you're interested, get some now before it's gone - this wines are not made in huge quantities.