Sunday, June 08, 2008

2006 Beaujolais - Dressner's Tasting

Last month I wrote a little bit about my experiences with 2006 Beaujolais. This weekend I went to an amazing tasting - Joe Dressner poured a load of Beaujolais wines, some that he imports and some that he doesn't. My original post mentioned only the wines that I had at home with dinner, and I feel that there's no substitute for that environment when evaluating a wine. But tasting so many excellent wines next to each other while in the relaxed confines of Chambers Street Wines, while discussing them a bit with was clear to me the wines that stood out, the wines that I MUST purchase and drink at home, and those that were merely delicious wines that I would enjoy drinking anytime. I'm serious - everything was really good. Beaujolais in the right hands is such a pleasure.

Here are the standouts, the wines that I MUST have again:

2006 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte de Py, $28. They decanted this at 1 PM after opening and discovering "a bad stench on the nose." It was about 4:15 PM when I had my first taste. There is no sulfur in this wine, this is all natural, and it can be an unpredictable experience opening this. I would never order it at a restaurant, for example. It might take too long to open up. Or it could be a sub-par bottle without being corked. This bottle though, at this time - utterly amazing. Such a luscious dark purple perfume, such spicy and energetic fruit, so light and lively, yet such depth to the flavors. Brilliant wine.

2006 Coudert Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cuvée Tardive, $26. Always great wine, and this was no exception. The nose was intoxicating with violets and soil and ripe dark fruit. The palate was pretty tight, but very pure and with plenty of evidence of the deliciousness to come.

2005 Michel Tête Juliénas Cuvée Prestige, $28. A new shipment released by the importer, not a second lot or something. Gorgeous nose, full of flowers and spices. The palate is dense and full of ripe fruit. I'd drink this now, but I'd also be curious to see it in 5 years.

2006 Coudert Clos de la Roilette Fleurie, $22. Not as extravagant on the nose as the old vines Tardive, but lovely still, and far more approachable on the palate. I'd drink this now and hold onto the Tardive for a few years at least.

2006 Lapierre Morgon, $23. My first ever taste of a Lapierre wine, and I liked it a lot. Very pure and elegant, and quite delicious.

The other wines poured were great too, but the above wines were my favorites. Here are the others:

2006 Domaine du Vissoux Moulin-a-Vent "Les Trois Roches," $23. Tight and mineral, like a brick wall, but there are hints at the delicious fruit underneath.

2006 Terres Dorées Côte de Brouilly, $19. I like this wine every year. Some dried fruit on the nose, some cinnamon, lots of dark fruit. Very tasty.

2006 Descombes Chiroubles Vieille Vignes, $28. Very nice indeed, layered and rich.

2006 Descombes Régnié Vielle Vignes, $28. Very happy to taste this, as I loved the regular 06 Régnié. Clearly good wine, but wasn't as giving as some of the others at this moment.

2006 Michel Tête Juliénas, $20. Tasty indeed, but not as compelling as the Prestige.

2006 Desvignes Morgon Javernières, $24. This was showing very austere, difficult to penetrate. It was certainly nice, but I don't have the experience with this particular wine to understand where it is in its evolution.

And by the way, I had the 2006 Lapalu Brouilly Vieille Vignes, $25, with dinner the other night and it was fantastic. This is a natural wine imported by Jenny & Francois. From 80 year old vines, this is complex and delicious. Beautiful nose of dark fruit and flowers, great purity, ripe spicy fruit. This definitely belongs on the same team as the other Beaujolais tasted above.


Vinotas said...

We had a bottle of 2006 Lapierre Morgon after the tasting with Dressner and a bunch of folks in Tribeca. Beautiful, really gorgeous.

Cliff said...

Great notes! Sorry I couldn't make it to the tasting. You have convinced me to go back to Foillard; I've tried it a couple of times but haven't gotten the usual spark. Agreed about the others you liked. I think the Desvignes and Vissoux are terrific as well, but it sounds like they're grumpy.

Anonymous said...

I opened a bottle of that Foillard last week and yum! I have found his wines consistently superb. Even when I know they're starting to go to my head I find it hard to stop due to the deliciousness.

I inquired and was told by the importer that the Foillard does have a small amount of sulphur added at bottling. The Lapierre does, too, except for the batch sold out of the Kermit Lynch shop in Berkeley.

Brooklynguy said...

sorry to miss you michael - would have been fun to meet you in person.

hey cliff - apparently foillard is quite variable, even within the bottle you open - the first hour can be a real mess. let us know what you find if you try it again. the bottle i tasted had been in the decanter for over 3 hours.

hi steve - i have that same problem, but with so many wines, not just foillard. i hear that the natural folks are being encouraged to use a bit of S02 to ensure the stability for the wine during the trans Atlantic voyage. makes sense, no?

Cliff said...

I just reloaded with a few more based on your note here and my experience in other years. I think he's a genius and I just caught the wine at a bad stage. I don't know that I nursed the 06 long enough to get a great read on it.

RE Lapierre, I've heard from a few people that NYC got the no-sulphur version as well. No?

Brooklynguy said...

cliff - better luck this time with foillard. and i just don't know about lapierre version we got. this one was my first taste of any version!

Cliff said...

You were so right about Foillard. I just had the 06 a couple of times in France, and it was brilliant. What a beautiful wine.

Brooklynguy said...

so glad to hear it cliff. i have 2 bottles that i plan on trying to save for a few years, see what happens. and don't think i didn't catch the france trip reference. just cause i'm quiet about it doesn't mean i'm not seething with jealousy.

Cliff said...

Sorry to rub it in. I'm still coming to terms with being back. I've never had older Foillard, but I think you made a safe bet.