Friday, July 17, 2009

Wine of the Week - 2007 Thierry et Pascale Matrot Bourgogne

You may have trouble believing what you're about to read here, but I assure you that it is the truth: there is a Bourgogne Blanc on the market now that will cost you between $15-$18, depending on where you live, that in my opinion offers the highest quality that I've encountered at that price point. This is a wine worth buying many bottles of, if you have the space. Yes, it is a great white Burgundy, and yes, I got mine for $15 a bottle.

2007 Thierry et Pascale Matrot Bourgogne Blanc, $15, Vineyard Brands Imports. You would know instantly that this is a Burgundy Chardonnay if it were served to you blind - it is that clean and true. The nose has great freshness, the citrus and Chardonnay fruit ripe and detailed, and saturated with stony minerals. Great purity on the palate, a blend of ripe fruit and bitter herbs and minerals. There is no midpalate fat, no fat anywhere really (except for on the just-opened nose). Not an overly extracted wine, not very broad. This is focused, ultra-pure and clean Burgundy Chardonnay, lean, but balanced and delicious. And at this price you can pour it rather liberally.

The estate is located in Meursault, and there are over 5 hectares of Meursault villages classified vines, the estates largest holding. There are parcels in Saint Romain, Auxey-Duresses, and in several red wine spots, but the most important Thierry et Pascale Matrot wines come from small parcels in some big-shot Meursault and Puligny 1er Cru vineyards, including Meursault Perrières, Charmes, and Chevalières, and Puligny Les Garennes.

Thierry Matrot took over for his father Pierre (who took over for his father Joseph) in 1983. He took the estate in a new direction, eventually going entirely organic as of 2000. Yields are carefully controlled via debudding and by using green harvests when necessary. All of the wines are fermented in oak using indiginous yeasts. Matrot is not inflexible, though, when it comes to work in the cellar. There have been vintages in which certain wines have been treated to reduce alcohol by up to half a percent, for example. That said, these are essentially naturally made wines in the focused and mineral driven style, that offer great purity and transparency.

The Bourgogne Blanc comes from vines that average 30 years old right outside of Meursault. It has a Stelvin closure - a screwcap, which I think is great for a wine that is not meant for the cellar. It is always a good wine and a good value, but the 2007 is particularly exellent. This wine is not blanketing the shelves, but it's pretty easy to find in and around New York. Diageo Château and Estate Wines also imports the wines, so I imagine the wines should be elsewhere too.


Michael said...

I have long been a fan of Thierry and Pascal Matrot's wine, ever since buying a case of their '02 Volnay Santenots. I thought they are an excellent value. I also have a good deal of their whites, particularly from '04, that have been progressing nicely. I did get some '06's that have been showing a bit flabby but maybe that will integrate in time, or maybe it's just the vintage. I look forward to trying the '07's, and will start with this entry-level offering.

Brooklynguy said...

hey Michael - 04 was so dicey with reds but i agree, so good for whites. 06 for Matrot has been pretty fat in general. i read that it's because he picked late and he compares his 06's to his 03's. very telling. i essentially skipped 06, but 07 i'm very excited about, for Matrot.

Weston said...

Do you have there webpage or a way I can see who imports this stuff into Canada.

Brooklynguy said...

hey Weston - thanks for reminding me - i completely dropped the ball on posting the Matrot website. Here it is.

Anonymous said...

Aaaarrrrggggghhhhhhh !!!!!!!!!!!

Brooklynguy is the smartest wine blog ever, and makes sure that all picutres are full screen on the click-through, except ........

Oops !!

Just thinking out loud.

Look forward all the knowledge and full screen pictures.

Ahhhhh !

I miss Friday Night Bubbles. I used to do the same 25 yrs ago, when I introduced my future spouse to sparkling wines. Oh well, c'est la vie.

Thanks for all the work.

Ciao !!!

Brooklynguy said...

hi Anon - that's nice of you to say that about Friday Night Bubbles. I'll do them as often as I can - expensive though, and these are tough times. Sorry if I'm being thick, but can you tell me more clearly what you'd like to have happen with the photos?

Anonymous said...

Well, because all previous posts had pictures that filled the screen, and were easy to read, and you could clearly see all the info on the labels, and we got spoiled.

Because the click through of the "2007 Thierry et Pascale Matrot Bourgogne Blanc" remains small, I had a small conniption.

Just making a plea to have all the click through pictures continue to fill the screen. Glasses and age and all the rest of that.

Thanks for asking.

Ciao !