Monday, May 14, 2007

Another White Stunner from 2005 Burgundy

I am finding that the un-oaked whites from the "lesser" regions of Burgundy are just fantastic in 2005. That they are reasonably priced makes the whole thing happy for everyone. The two "lesser" regions I refer to are the Cote Chalonnaise and the Maconnais, both south of the Cote de Beaune and north of Beaujolais. There are some excellent wines, both red and white, coming from these places. I prefer the whites in general, as the mineral soil and the tendency NOT to oak the Chard just works for me. The reds can be a little high toned and cranberry-shrill for me, but I should taste more.

But back to the whites...I cannot get that 2005 Jean Manciat Macon-Charnay out of my mind since I first had it at a tasting. So bright and fresh, such lovely flavors, so well balanced. And $17 before the mixed case discount! Yeah, I am now the proud owner of a few more bottles.

And it ain't all Manciat, people. I tasted another simply excellent 2005 un-oaked white Burgundy the other day, courtesy of the ever generous Deetrane. He busted out a screw-cap 2005 Girardin Rully Vielle Vignes under the late Sunday sun in his backyard. A little reserved in the nose, but the palate was singing. Crisp and pure, great balance of citrus, stone fruit, and mineral, with nice acidity. BrooklynLady made hers disappear right quick.

Deetrane said it would go for about $25 retail (he, of course, purchased his on wine commune for about $10/bottle). This makes the Manciat a better play, but the Girardin wine is absolutely worth seeking out too. I would love to have a half case of this in my racks, along with another of the Manciat. Bring it on, summer time Saturday night seafood dinners on the deck with pals!

I think I may have to explore these "lesser" regions a bit more. They may not be Puligny or Vosne Romanee, but maybe they're not so "lesser," either. The Cote Chalonnaise is home to Mercury, Givry, Montagny, and Rully, to name a few. The Maconnais is home to St Veran and Pouilly Fuisse, among others. There are 1er Cru vineyards here too people! You know, this would make a good Wine Blogging Wednesday theme...

Addendum: The two wines mentioned in this post are opposites in terms of the way they were created. Jean Manciat is a natural winemaker who personally tends every vine, and who monitors (the French call it elevage) each container of wine after fermentation before bottling. Girardin is one of the most important negociants in Burgundy, buying grapes from all over the Cote d'Or. Girardin's whites have a very good reputation, and the reds too - one was among the highest rated wines of the year last year. There is nothing wrong with negociant winemakers - that's not at all what I'm saying. My favorite Oregon Pinot producer buys grapes. But it is an interesting point to me, since I try to eat at mom and pop restaurants and to buy wine from people who grow the grapes. Just a point of info...

3 comments:

John said...

The whites wines of Macon are some of my favorite examples of chardonnay, and I'm a big fan of the Manciat Macon-Charnay. 2005 is indeed looking like a fine year for white Burgundy in general. Bring on the white Burgundy WBW (WBWBW).

Brooklynguy said...

Hi John - good to see you. They are changing my view of white Burg, I'll tell you. I have yet to feel like I'm getting my money's worth in Montrachet, for example...

deetrane said...

The Rully V.V. was $10.24, to be exact:

http://www.winecommune.com/lot.cfm/wine/2005-Girardin-Vincent-Rully-Vielles-Vignes-Chardonnay/lotID/1425054.html