Friday, May 02, 2008

Friday Night Bubbles

NV Françoise Bedel Champagne Brut Entre Ciel et Terre, $54, JD Headrick Selections. By the way, like my new camera? Been a long time coming, but I finally got a new one. Say goodbye to all of those blurry old closeups. Anyway, this is another one from Alice's list. Sorry to wax euphoric for the second time in a row, but there is no other option. I thought this wine was a Blanc de Noirs, but now I'm not so sure. I'll clear this up as soon as possible.

Whatever the grapes, it's utterly beautiful. I'm going to try to describe it, but a lot of the beauty was texture, and the way the wine spread out in the mouth, the harmony of all of the flavors. I'm still learning to describe Champagne. Not all of us can be Peter Liem, buddy.

Bedel is a grower/producer in the Marne Valley who converted to biodynamics in 1999. She makes several wines, but this is the top wine. I'm guessing that Entre Ciel et Terre (between sky and earth) refers to the purity of wine making methods. Minimal intervention, organic farming - this wine is the product of good soils and weather. And it's amazing wine, honestly. I kept coming back to write more notes over the course of the evening. Initially a very chalky nose, very penetrating. Juicy red fruit coated in chalky minerals, floral mouth aromas after swallowing. More air time allowed the wine to put on weight. It really spreads out in the mouth, but remains incredibly focused, coating the palate with rich deep fruit, chiseled minerals, and soft upper register floral aromas. There is an intensity that lingers long after swallowing.

Over the last glass I came back to write that the wine is a study in harmony. The fruit, the minerals, the flowers, the acidity, the feeling of the wine in the mouth - all of these things work together perfectly and the overall effect is quite beautiful. The wine is like perfectly warmed up muscles, loose, supple, powerful, capable of exertion or restraint. Just gorgeous wine and a great value at this price. It wasn't easy to find, but most well worth the effort. I would give this the highest of recommendations - I've not had a finer Blanc de Noirs, and that include the Bouchard from two weeks ago. And by the way, BrooklynLady felt that this is the best bottle we've had.

8 comments:

David McDuff said...

Sounds absolutely great, Neil. And while Peter may well be in a class above the rest of us, I've definitely been digging your notes. You're doing a fine job being Brooklynguy.

Joe said...

It's not Friday night yet...do you know of a list of biodynamic/organic producers in Champagne?

Brooklynguy said...

hi david-thanks for the kind words - means a lot coming from you. i guess that's all i can really be, anyway. ever had Bedel?

hey joe-i go a week in advance for friday night bubbles. last weeks wine was Bedel. i'm drinking next friday's post right now (and it's so freakin' good for $18). i do not know of such a list, just individual producers. you could try Jack at fork and bottle from his WBW biodynamic theme that he hosted.

michelecolline said...

Her website insinuates some chardonnay in all the wines but doesn't come right out and say. The main thing seems to be a large majority of pinot meunier in her champagnes.

Joe said...

Hi Neil - very organized of you, I am always back-posting. Thanks for the tip, will head over to F&B

Deetrane said...

I don't know, Brooklynguy. Those are some pretty strong words you wrote about that Françoise Bedel "earth & sky" Champagne. Are you *sure* you are ready to commit to this Champagne being your TOP Champagne? Think about it, pal, before you write something like that.

Meanwhile, p-trane and I are absolutely orgasmic about the quality of everything we are drinking this weekend in Southold. Holy $&!T there is some good wine out here! Is it just me, or is Brooklynguy sloooowly turning all the rest of us into Brooklynguy?

BTW, to get the discounts we bought some wine for you so just be prepared to shell out.

Brooklynguy said...

michele-i saw that, but it's possible that the Chard goes into one of the cuvees, not this one. i'm trying to find out for certain. and meunier - it is me, or are the meunier heavy wines just amazing?

deetrane-best blanc de noirs i've had so far, not best overall champs, although it would be in the mix on that one too, no doubt. glad you're having fun out there, but you shouldn't have brought your blackberry with you this weekend, don't you think. 5th anniversary and all...

Alastair said...

Superb label and enhanced by the quality photography.

Nice one....I'll look out for it in the UK.