Friday Night Bubbles

NV Domaine de Montbourgeau Crémant du Jura, $18, Rosenthal Importers. This wine is great news for all of us - a top quality sparkling wine for under $20. Really a great one, too. Located in the small village of L'Etoile, Domaine de Montbourgeau is known for still whites. There is a long lived vin jaune and three whites made in the "sous voile," or under-the veil style, the oxidized style of whites that the Jura is famous for. One of these, the all-Chardonnay Montbourgeau L'Etoile costs about $20 and is a great way to sample the oxidized style of Jura without breaking the bank.

Anyway...This sparkling wine is 100% Chardonnay and it's just delicious. Fresh and vibrant, incisive with snappy citrus acidity, light and elegant mouth feel with a smooth in texture, this wine will exceed your expectations at this price point. It doesn't have the chalky mineral complexity of a truly fine Blanc de Blancs, but if you want Champagne, then buy Champagne. If you want a great sparkling wine - interesting, elegant, food-friendly Blanc de Blancs - this is one to buy. Works well as an aperitif or with all kinds of food (I had it with steak once and that worked). This time we had a glass while gabbing about the day, and then enjoyed the rest with a stew of French lentils, russet potatoes, and slab bacon. It cut through the rich food like a hot knife through butter.

The best news - if you live in New York, this wine is easy to find right now. Chambers Street and Astor have it, so do Prospect Wines and Slope Cellars in Brooklyn. I'm sure you'll find it wherever you buy other Rosenthal wines. If you're interested, get some now before it's gone - this wines are not made in huge quantities.